Vatican City

Today Lizzie and Rachel and Hugo and I went to the Vatican, which consists of three parts as far as tourists are concerned: the Vatican museums, the Sistine chapel and St Peter's Basilica. It was incredibly crowded - everywhere, but we had a wonderful day.

We decided to join a tour group because otherwise the lines are ridiculously long. It was still over two and a half hours between signing up and actually seeing anything in the museum. It was all wonderful, but I have to admit I was a little disappointed in the Sistine Chapel. I didn't realize that it's pretty much an art gallery. Glorious art of course, and great stories. Apparently Michelangelo's peers recommended he be commissioned to paint the ceiling, hoping he'd fail. He had had very little training in painting. He rounded up some people to teach him - they all worked on the ceiling with him while he learned, then he sacked them and started again. Interestingly, he didn't know how to paint a woman, so he just painted his usual muscular men and then put dresses on them! It was a common idea, the guide said, that the male body, being formed 'in the image of God' was perfect and couldn't be improved upon:) I did enjoy finding out about how the cardinals are kept in the rear of the chapel when the pope dies, until they decide who the next one should be. Apparently once they took months to decide. Nowadays they are given three days of food and after that they're rationed, to encourage them to decide swiftly.

Unfortunately the Pope was nowhere to be seen - like all the popes for about the last four hundred years, he spends his summers south of Rome, to escape the heat. We were very interested in the Swiss Guards. They are like the military of the Vatican City - sworn to guard the pope. To be recruited they must be Swiss, between 19 and 30, male, single and Catholic. Their outfits are Renaissance style - brightly coloured - unlike any other military in the world! When Rachel and Hugo went to have their pictures taken in front of the two at the front gate of St Peter's, one of them was a little nervous when Rachel was about two meters away, holding up his hands, saying, "Distance! Distance!"

I adored St Peter's. The largest Catholic church on the earth, it's a treasure trove of history and beauty. There is too much to describe - many domes, many chapels on the sides, Michelangel's Pieta, Bernini's INCREDIBLE ornate canopy (that's an understatement) over what is believed to be St Peter's tomb - so so many other things to look at. This website has lots of photos and information: http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/rome-st-peters-basilica

There is a wonderful bronze statue of St Peter from the 13th century. It's considered good luck to rub his foot, the toes and sandals of which have been worn away by visitors over the centuries. I lined up and gave it very good rub for Nana, and then another good rubbing for Aunty Kath. We sat quietly for a while in the Chapel of the Eucharist - a tiny but amazingly ornate (like everything in the basilica) chapel on the right hand side of the basilica.

It was an exhausting day but well worth it. I think the best thing to do would be to make a friend 'on the inside' and go some time outside regular visiting times! it was so crowded and hot, but absolutely beautiful.

Afterwards we found a little restaurant a few blocks away and had delicious food. The chef was very friendly, pointing out the Los Angeles newspaper cutout on the wall about the restaurant he had there, and showing us a photo of Gary Sinese who ate there some time recently in the very spot in which Hugo was sitting. I had pasta with mussels - delicious. Between us we had bruschette, grilled vegetables, spaghetti carbonara, spaghetti al ragou (probably not the right spelling) gnocchi with gorgonzola and my pasta with mussels. My dream has come true here - sparkling mineral water is always the least expensive drink on the menu!

Yesterday we visited the Colosseum again with Lizzie, joining a tour group this time. We met a very nice Russian girl called Anna, with whom we ate lunch. I must round up those photos! Tomorrow we go with Lizzie to see the inside of the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and who knows where else. We've decided to have a sleep-in. Last night we went to see Toy Story 3 - fun!

We absolutely love Roma.