Beware the phantom!

Yesterday we took even longer to get up than usual, and ended up heading out at about 1:30 in the afternoon. We decided that the Palais Garnier would fit nicely into our available time, and we were all keen to see the theatre on which the Phantom of the Opera stories are based.

We got out at metro Opera, and it was right there. It is incredible, even from the outside. Once our bags were checked, we were in. Our timing was perfect to catch up with an English-speaking tour which had just left. I was so glad that we went with the guide. Palais or Opera Garnier's early history is absolutely tied to the social classes, and we would never have known that if our charming guide hadn't shared lots of fascinating tidbits with us. Here are just a few.

It was built from 1861 to 1875 by Charles Garnier. The style is extremely ornate, with about five repeated elements in different forms, with lots of gold leaf and marble. A lot of the images and statues are of Greek mythology, particularly Apollo,. Garnier wove his name into one of the ceilings, as well as putting busts of himself and his wife amongst the other gods...

The grand stairwell (Masquerade - Phantom of the Opera) is breathtaking. We entered the building through the front, which is where the cheapest ticket-holders would have entered. Then the guide took us to where the season ticket-holders would have entered. It was all planned around being seen. These people would come in and sweep up the staircase. The earlier you arrived, the better spot you would have at one of the balconies, so everyone could admire you.

Many of the seats in the theatre still bear the type of ticket they related to, so when you sat down, everyone knew whether you had entered in the poor way or the rich way.

The boxes were the best of course, and many people would come three or four times a week, if they had subscribed to a box, because if you didn't have a box, you were nobody. People would talk to their friends during the performance, and the lights were never out, so that you could see everyone and you could be seen. People in the boxes would go back behind their curtain and have a sleep, once they had shown off their dress and jewelry, and wake up for intermission, when they would be seen again. They were shocked that the Italians and Austrians would come to the theatre and be quiet, and just watch.

It wasn't until 1930 that one of the choreographers had had enough and demanded that the lights in the audience be turned off, and that the audience be quiet and watch the show. He also stopped the tradition of French men going back to the dressing rooms and rehearsal rooms (the ballerinas were often poor, and became ballerinas hoping to gain the 'patronage' of a rich man). The guide told us a story about a man in the audience who said to his wife that so and so had been seen out and about with such and such ballerina. She replied to him, "She is not as beautiful as OUR ballerina". So, it was quite accepted.

We saw box number 5, the phantom's box, and she told us the stories about the noises during construction, and how the phantom legend began. There was enough water under the theatre when it was built to take 8 months to pump out, but now there is no water except a storage container in case of fire, though the sewers are near by. Hugo loved this part.

The theatre is absolutely amazing. We watched a ballet rehearsal through a window in one of the box doors, and then when it was over, we got to go in and stand on the balcony and look around. The ceiling had to be repainted some years ago, and the minister privately had Marc Chagall do it, much to the annoyance of many Parisiens. The guide showed us that it actually contains many of the same elements of the original, destroyed by gaslight emissions and cigarette smoke, over the years.

The Opera Garnier wasn't quite finished, due to the Prussian War, which the French lost, and it was the end of French royalty, so the royal entrance was never completed - the Republic didn't want to pay for it. Outside, the guide pointed out that some of the statues of cherubs were not finished - they have ornate heads, and stone blocks for bodies!

We came home and had ham, baguettes and salad for dinner. Rachel wanted to go for a run, so she and her dad hopped on the metro to the Eiffel Tower, and ran around in the park for a while. They were there when the lights came on on the Tower, and said it was gorgous.

Yesterday we booked Altitude 95, one of the restaurants on the Tower, for Alex's eighteenth birthday on the 3rd July. Fun!

Sorry if this was too much detail, but it was an amazing place! I've left out loads! Today.... the Louvre!